Nightlife in Thimphu

Thimphu's nightlife is one of travel's better-kept non-secrets. Modest in scale, local in character, and a fair bit livelier than the Gross National Happiness branding might lead you to expect. The capital of Bhutan is a small city by any measure. The after-dark scene is concentrated and walkable rather than large. Almost everything worth doing at night sits within a few hundred meters of Chang Lam and Norzin Lam, the two parallel commercial streets that form the city's spine. By 8pm the restaurant-bars are filling up. By 10pm the dedicated drinking spots hit their stride. By 1am the last holdouts are settling their tabs. What distinguishes Thimphu's scene from neighboring capitals is its demographic mix. You'll find government workers unwinding after long days. Young Bhutanese professionals who have studied abroad and come home with different expectations for a night out. A small but surprisingly visible expat community of NGO workers and consultants. And a rotating cast of permitted tourists. These groups don't separate into different bars. The city is too small for that. Everyone ends up in the same dozen venues, which gives the scene an egalitarian, easy-conversation quality that's harder to find in larger cities. Druk beer, brewed locally, is the working currency of the night. Ara, the traditional fermented grain spirit that can range from rough to surprisingly smooth depending on where it's made, shows up at more local spots. Imported whisky is available everywhere and seems to be the preferred drink of anyone trying to project a certain image. The altitude sits at around 3,280 meters, which is worth keeping in mind. Drinks hit noticeably harder here than at sea level. The walk home uphill has humbled more than one confident visitor.